Hungry Mother fills up, so it's best to get there early (six-ish) or late (ten-ish) or to make reservations. Generally, the seasonal, hardy meals are fantastic (and the bar food menu, available after 10:30, is very reasonable). But the true gift Hungry Mother gives us is its bar. Its cocktail menu (in which all drinks are simply numbered, such as the 47, which is laird’s applejack, aperol, buffalo trace bourbon, big rock, or the 64: del maguey mezcal vida, green chartreuse, carpano antica). The true delight though is the bartender's choice, whereby the fellow behind the bar (usually a virtuoso named Ned) will take a few specifications (e.g. "not to sweet" or "something with tequila") and change your life. Not to be missed.